Day 11
I woke up early this morning, eager to escape the unrelenting gloom of Florence. We were at the train station in time for the 9:40 train -- which was thirty minutes late! While we were waiting for our train, an older man heard us speaking English and approached us. He and his companion turned out to be fellow Arizonans, and we chatted while we waited for the train to arrive.
Massimo, our bed and breakfast host, was kind enough to wait for us to arrive so that he could personally give us the key to our room and make sure that we had everything we needed. When he discovered that we had reserved tickets for Wednesday's papal audience through Santa Susanna instead of going directly to the Vatican, he offered to save us the trip to Santa Susanna and get the tickets for us. When we returned to our room after lunch, the tickets were waiting on our dresser.
At a little after two, we decided to visit the Vatican Museums. We were able to make it through the massive collection in about three hours, including forty-five minutes in the Sistine Chapel. Initially, Dan was disappointed by the chapel -- he thought it would be bigger. Understandable, since the "spark of life" panel that everyone is so familiar with is actually just one of nine center panels in an immense space. Ultimately, Michelangelo's The Last Judgment was the most impressive work to Dan.
We walked back to our room for our afternoon nap. Dan tried to get the TV to work for half an hour before giving up in irritation. I was actually glad not to have to listen to the constant drone of CNN or BBC News for a change.
Around eight o'clock, we went back to Via Bargo Pio to find a restaurant Dan had read about called Tre Pupazzi. The best part of the meal was the dessert -- panna cotta with a drizzle of caramel.
Day 12
Dan's knees were really hurting him today, so we took it relatively easy. We had tickets to the papal audience at 10:30, so we started toward St. Peter's Square around 10 a.m. After a frantic search for the right line -- we found it with just moments to spare -- we were directed into a large auditorium to the left of the basilica. I'd say it accommodated a thousand people, and almost every seat was filled.
The pope read a devotion about Saint Catherine of Sienna in Italian. I was able to understand about every third word, but I got the gist of it. After the reading, what Dan and I have come to think of as the "pep rally" began. The audience was presented to Pope Benedict XVI by language groupings. Some of the named groups sang or chanted to the pope when they were mentioned by the priest. When all the groups in a given language were presented, the pope then read a brief statement in that language. At the end, he sang the Lord's Prayer in Latin and the rest of us tried to sing along. In Dan's words: "That must be a heck of ego boost for the pope. He probably leaves the stage thinking, 'I rocked it today!'"
I was surprised by how much the event moved me. Seeing so many devoted Catholics gathered to honor the human leader of their church was honestly overwhelming.
We toured St. Peter's Basilica afterwards. The immensity of that holy place is dazzling. At the front there is a beautiful stained-glass window featuring a dove, and to the right of the entrance Michelangelo's Pieta awaits in a curtained area. Dan was most impressed by the bronze altar -- seven stories tall -- that sits near the front of the church.
At dinner, we finally tried the restaurant Massimo had suggested: a German place called Ristorante Franz! The Hungarian goulash was quite tasty.
Day 13
Italian students were protesting an increase in tuition fees by taking over the Colosseum in Rome and that famous tower in Pisa.
Luckily, we were headed for Ostia Antica, a Roman colony that spent a few centuries abandoned and buried in mud, resulting in an incredibly well-preserved Roman city. Even the mosaic floors of the public baths are still intact.
We were having a great time until the rainclouds showed up. we were forced to retreat to the cafeteria, where we had an uninspiring meal and waited for the rain to pass. When it didn't, we decided to explore the museum instead: yet another collection of statues. By this time, even I was museumed-out.
When the rain stopped, we made tracks for the train station, just missing one by about thirty seconds. Because of the rain, we sat inside the station, where a girl and her three male companions were flirting and playing -- until the play got a little rough for the girl. Dan was watching when one of the boys hit the girl hard on her butt. She started crying -- whether from pain or fear, I don't know. Dan was instantly sizing the young men up, his chivalrous nature coming to the fore. To him, that girl was someone's daughter and needed protecting. Luckily, the girl made up with the boys, and when the train came, the one who had smacked her got on the train with us.
Day 14
Dan was determined to eat lunch in a restaurant called Trattoria da Lucia, located in the Trastavere neighborhood. We set out in the general direction of Trastavere, walking at a relaxed pace. Upon perusing the map, we discovered we were close to the Pantheon and so detoured to tour it. Dan was suitably impressed by the engineering feat of creating the second-century dome.
After a brief foray into the Campo di Fiori, we found our way back across the river and into the Trastavere. The atmosphere immediately changed from touristy to residential. We stumbled across Santa Maria in Trastavere, an ancient and beautiful church. The frescoes were pre-Renaissance, and the outside courtyard was decorated with cemetery carvings from early Christian burials.
Dan led us through several twisting streets to Trattoria Lucia, a restaurant that opened just after WWII. I would have to say we had our best meal of the whole trip there. I had spaghetti cacio e pepe, Dan had a beef and baby onion stew, and we shared a portion of pecorino romano, a sheep's milk cheese. For dessert, we shared the panna cotta with mixed berries.
After examining the map, we decided to try to locate some of the landmarks that seemed to be nearby -- probably because the steep hill made them look that way. After climbing the hill, we were faced with three even steeper flights of stairs, causing Dan to renew his claim that I was trying to kill him.
At the top, we found the Fontana Acqua Paola and magnificent views of Rome. A military vehicle was there, too -- a reminder that protests were continuing. When one of the soldiers began patrolling with his machine gun slung over his shoulder, we moved along.
Our goal was to find several other monuments; unfortunately, I led us astray, mistakenly believing that we could walk through the large park southwest of the Vatican and still find the various statues. However, the park is pretty much self-contained; we walked ninety minutes before we stumbled across another gate -- one that would let us escape the park.
Completely off the tourist map, we wandered blindly until I finally spotted St. Peter's dome -- down a hill and at least three miles away! At least we had a sense of which direction we needed to go. We started down the hill. Dan's knees were really killing him by then. Finally, I spotted a tobacco store -- the only place to buy bus tickets -- and a bus stop. I bought two bus tickets and we waited for the bus, which promised to take us to a street we recognized as being near our room. In fact, it took us to within a block of our room, thereby rescuing Dan's knees and probably my neck.
For dinner, we had what was arguably the worst meal of the trip in another nearby restaurant. The "pizzas" were really just tortillas made to look like pizzas and the wine was watered down to weak grape juice. At least it was cheap.
Day 15
As we climbed the ramps and stairs of Castel Sant'Angelo, Dan was once more convinced of my elaborate plot to cause his death in Italy. He says I didn't properly warn him, but he could see how tall the building was and he knew the goal was the top. He'd even read Rick Steves' description of the uphill hike, so his unhappiness, on this occasion, was not my fault. In any case, the view was beautiful at the top. Unfortunately, there's not any other valid reason to tour this museum.
While he was in the bathroom, I found a lovely teenaged girl and her mother and chatted with them for a few minutes. By the time Dan found me, the girl and I were discussing Christopher Moore, a favorite author of hers and of mine. Dan marveled at my ability to not only locate Americans but also start a conversation about books in less than five minutes.
We went to the Piazza Navona next, where a small band was playing and people were busily preparing for a holiday carnival. We found the art we were looking for at the far end of the public space and selected two lovely watercolor prints.
Day 16
We started our last, very long day with a final carb-laden breakfast. I could hardly eat -- I hate flying, and my stomach was already in full revolt. Massimo had arrange for us to have a driver pick us up at 8:30. He provided our last Italian thrill, clearly believing that all road markings and signs were only suggestions.
We waited inside the terminal for the better part of an hour, at which point they began bussing us to the plane. We had two seats together next to a window, with an aisle between us and our nearest neighbor. They were cramped, but workable. Unfortunately, the entertainment system was not functioning. Ten hours of flight, the woman behind us complaining bitterly for nearly half of it, and a plane full of more than three hundred restless souls -- it was unpleasant.
Finally, we landed safely in Charlotte. After standing in line for an hour to get through customs, we made it to our connecting flight with almost an hour to spare. We sat down in a restaurant and shared a barbecued pork sandwich. The flight from Rome had bruised my tailbone, so Dan dug out a pain pill for me.
I'm not sure what set off my panic about the next flight -- an earlier discussion of wind sheers, the medication, the old guy behind me loudly complaining that the engine didn't sound right -- but I was frightened from the time my butt hit the seat until we were safely on the ground in Phoenix. I think I nearly gave Dan a heart attack from worrying about me. I kept imagining the side of the plane was going to open up and suck me out into the sky. Dan said I was safe; I had my seat belt on the whole time. "Besides," he said, "if that happened, maybe the old man would have been sucked out," thereby greatly improving the balance of the flight.
We're home, we're safe, and we have a new appreciation for our country. Next year, I'm thinking a driving trip might be the better choice...
Showing posts with label Vacation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vacation. Show all posts
Thursday, December 2, 2010
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
How to Fully Explore Two Italian Cities and Completely Exhaust Your Spouse in Two Weeks, Part III
Day 6
Deciding to forgo the hotel's nine-euro breakfasts, we stopped and had cappuccinos and sandwiches for breakfast -- seventeen euros. I guess the hotel's prices weren't bad, after all.
San Lorenzo has an unfinished facade because the Medicis pulled the plug on their pet project prior to its completion. Inside, though, it's beautiful. The church is connected to a cloister that features a Michelangelo-designed library, which is as large as a church and lined with rows of pews on both sides of the room. The books originally would have rested on the angled ledges above the benches. At the end of each bench is a small plaque indicating what texts were kept there. The Medici Chapels are also connected to the church. One of the chapels was designed by Michelangelo, but never completely finished. There are still doodles and drawings on two of the walls, including a caricature of a Roman soldier and a sketch of the window design for the previously mentioned library.
We walked from San Lorenzo to the Ponte Vecchio, where we encountered a couple from Connecticut. We took a photo of them together and then they took one of us together -- the only one of the whole trip. We ducked into a restaurant to get out of the rain and shared a plate of risotto with mushrooms and chicken with mashed potatoes. After the meal, I had an espresso, which was actually better than I remembered.
At the Palazzo Pitti, there was a special exhibit of Carravaggio, who happens to be an artist Dan admires. We spent an hour studying Carravaggio, then proceeded to wander through room after room of the palace's regular collection.
Though there were no taxis at the taxi stand, an Italian gentleman kindly called one for us. It we'd had to walk back to the hotel, I'm sure Dan would have complained bitterly every step of the way!
Day 7
Thinking to save our legs for later exertions, Dan asked the hotel clerk to call a taxi to take us to Piazza della Signoria, the public square where David's copy and another dozen statues stand vigil. We found a cafe and had breakfast before visiting the Bargello, a three-story statuary museum featuring the work of most of Florence's greatest sculptors. Donatello's David is one of the main attractions there. After spending a couple of hours there, we exited into another rainy day. Setting a course for the Duomo, we waded through people and puddles until I suggested we find some lunch.
The restaurant we ducked into turned out to be one I'd read about in my guidebook: one-hundred-and-fifty years old and famous for its food and its clientele. I recognized it not by its name but by the bust of Woodrow Wilson that was across from our table. Instead of an anniversary dinner -- our fifth anniversary, by the way -- we splurged on a delicious lunch. Dan ordered the risotto and roasted potatoes and I ordered Chicken Vesuvius. Everything was wonderful.
Refreshed by our meals and the respite from the rain, we headed for the Duomo Museum to see the original Baptistry doors -- which, of course, were in renovation instead of on display. However, the rest of the collection was well worth the price of admission.
Day 8
After a quick glance at the weather forecast, we decided today was probably our best chance to visit the Boboli Gardens, located just behind the Palazzo Pitti.
First, though, we stopped for lunch at the highly recommended Trattoria Za Za. Located near the Mercato Centrale, the restaurant is a rambling space colorfully decorated and busy with locals and tourists. Dan ordered the spaghetti alla Carbonera and I had the ribollita, a Tuscan vegetable soup with bread in it. I've got to find a recipe for that soup! And the cheesecake we ordered for dessert was heavenly -- the best we've ever had.
Dan had been dreading the gardens after catching a glimpse of them a few days ago. However, once we started the climb and were able to see the ever-more-impressive views, he began to enjoy himself. At the top, a formal garden offers views of the Tuscan countryside. I think Dan was more impressed by those views than the art we've seen in the museums.
We spent most of the afternoon wandering through the gracefully decaying gardens. We exited by the Roman Gate, only to discover there were no taxis at the taxi stand -- again! We hiked back to the front of the Palazzo Pitti -- at least a mile -- and were lucky enough to catch a cab there.
Though our feet were tired, we had a nice day -- the only almost-sunny day in Florence besides the afternoon we arrived. Our nature walk gave Dan a much-needed respite from the museum-heavy vacation.
Day 9
Cold, wet, and rainy. Having packed light (one carry-on bag apiece), we spent the morning doing laundry. After having a taxi take us back to the Trattoria Za Za for an early lunch, we walked to the Medici-Riccardi Palace. Its greatest feature is the tiny Chapel of the Magi.
We walked to the Uffizi afterwards, but the line was outrageously long and we were soaked to the bones. We decided not to wait, instead stopping for sandwiches and sodas to take back to our room so that we could stay in the rest of the night. Even I had reached my saturation point on the bad weather.
Day 10
Rested and renewed, we hired a taxi to take us to Santa Maria Novella. Unfortunately, the church was closed until one o'clock. We were able to tour the adjoining museum though, which was interesting. Sadly the frescoes are faded to shadows, but the vestments and reliquaries on display were interesting.
From there, we walked in torrential rains along the Arno toward the Palazzo Vecchio. Remembering that Ristorante Paoli was nearby, we searched it out for lunch. The waiters remembered us and returned us to the same table we'd shared on our anniversary. The meals were excellent. I chose to forgo dessert in favor of the promise of gelato.
At the end of our meal, I heard a waiter announce, "C'e il sole!" We emerged into the first truly clear sky since our arrival -- finally!
We walked back to the Palazzo Vecchio and explored the huge structure, which was begun around 1300 or so, then added to and modified over the course of centuries. Today, it is both a government building and a museum. In my opinion, the most interesting rooms were the ones renovated for Eleanora of Toledo, who died of malaria shortly after they were completed. Her chapel was particularly beautiful.
Though we intended to go to the Galileo Science Museum, we ended up at the Basilica di Santa Croce, where Michelangelo and Galileo are buried. The Gothic structure was unfortunately in the midst of renovations, so its true beauty was marred by extensive scaffolding. Still, I did manage to see a few of the frescoed chapels.
Dan's ankle had been hurting him for the last few days, so we decided to hire a cab and return to the hotel. Unfortunately, Piazza di Santa Croce is the only square in Florence without a gelateria, so my ice cream dreams were dashed.
To be continued.
Deciding to forgo the hotel's nine-euro breakfasts, we stopped and had cappuccinos and sandwiches for breakfast -- seventeen euros. I guess the hotel's prices weren't bad, after all.
San Lorenzo has an unfinished facade because the Medicis pulled the plug on their pet project prior to its completion. Inside, though, it's beautiful. The church is connected to a cloister that features a Michelangelo-designed library, which is as large as a church and lined with rows of pews on both sides of the room. The books originally would have rested on the angled ledges above the benches. At the end of each bench is a small plaque indicating what texts were kept there. The Medici Chapels are also connected to the church. One of the chapels was designed by Michelangelo, but never completely finished. There are still doodles and drawings on two of the walls, including a caricature of a Roman soldier and a sketch of the window design for the previously mentioned library.
We walked from San Lorenzo to the Ponte Vecchio, where we encountered a couple from Connecticut. We took a photo of them together and then they took one of us together -- the only one of the whole trip. We ducked into a restaurant to get out of the rain and shared a plate of risotto with mushrooms and chicken with mashed potatoes. After the meal, I had an espresso, which was actually better than I remembered.
At the Palazzo Pitti, there was a special exhibit of Carravaggio, who happens to be an artist Dan admires. We spent an hour studying Carravaggio, then proceeded to wander through room after room of the palace's regular collection.
Though there were no taxis at the taxi stand, an Italian gentleman kindly called one for us. It we'd had to walk back to the hotel, I'm sure Dan would have complained bitterly every step of the way!
Day 7
Thinking to save our legs for later exertions, Dan asked the hotel clerk to call a taxi to take us to Piazza della Signoria, the public square where David's copy and another dozen statues stand vigil. We found a cafe and had breakfast before visiting the Bargello, a three-story statuary museum featuring the work of most of Florence's greatest sculptors. Donatello's David is one of the main attractions there. After spending a couple of hours there, we exited into another rainy day. Setting a course for the Duomo, we waded through people and puddles until I suggested we find some lunch.
The restaurant we ducked into turned out to be one I'd read about in my guidebook: one-hundred-and-fifty years old and famous for its food and its clientele. I recognized it not by its name but by the bust of Woodrow Wilson that was across from our table. Instead of an anniversary dinner -- our fifth anniversary, by the way -- we splurged on a delicious lunch. Dan ordered the risotto and roasted potatoes and I ordered Chicken Vesuvius. Everything was wonderful.
Refreshed by our meals and the respite from the rain, we headed for the Duomo Museum to see the original Baptistry doors -- which, of course, were in renovation instead of on display. However, the rest of the collection was well worth the price of admission.
Day 8
After a quick glance at the weather forecast, we decided today was probably our best chance to visit the Boboli Gardens, located just behind the Palazzo Pitti.
First, though, we stopped for lunch at the highly recommended Trattoria Za Za. Located near the Mercato Centrale, the restaurant is a rambling space colorfully decorated and busy with locals and tourists. Dan ordered the spaghetti alla Carbonera and I had the ribollita, a Tuscan vegetable soup with bread in it. I've got to find a recipe for that soup! And the cheesecake we ordered for dessert was heavenly -- the best we've ever had.
Dan had been dreading the gardens after catching a glimpse of them a few days ago. However, once we started the climb and were able to see the ever-more-impressive views, he began to enjoy himself. At the top, a formal garden offers views of the Tuscan countryside. I think Dan was more impressed by those views than the art we've seen in the museums.
We spent most of the afternoon wandering through the gracefully decaying gardens. We exited by the Roman Gate, only to discover there were no taxis at the taxi stand -- again! We hiked back to the front of the Palazzo Pitti -- at least a mile -- and were lucky enough to catch a cab there.
Though our feet were tired, we had a nice day -- the only almost-sunny day in Florence besides the afternoon we arrived. Our nature walk gave Dan a much-needed respite from the museum-heavy vacation.
Day 9
Cold, wet, and rainy. Having packed light (one carry-on bag apiece), we spent the morning doing laundry. After having a taxi take us back to the Trattoria Za Za for an early lunch, we walked to the Medici-Riccardi Palace. Its greatest feature is the tiny Chapel of the Magi.
We walked to the Uffizi afterwards, but the line was outrageously long and we were soaked to the bones. We decided not to wait, instead stopping for sandwiches and sodas to take back to our room so that we could stay in the rest of the night. Even I had reached my saturation point on the bad weather.
Day 10
Rested and renewed, we hired a taxi to take us to Santa Maria Novella. Unfortunately, the church was closed until one o'clock. We were able to tour the adjoining museum though, which was interesting. Sadly the frescoes are faded to shadows, but the vestments and reliquaries on display were interesting.
From there, we walked in torrential rains along the Arno toward the Palazzo Vecchio. Remembering that Ristorante Paoli was nearby, we searched it out for lunch. The waiters remembered us and returned us to the same table we'd shared on our anniversary. The meals were excellent. I chose to forgo dessert in favor of the promise of gelato.
At the end of our meal, I heard a waiter announce, "C'e il sole!" We emerged into the first truly clear sky since our arrival -- finally!
We walked back to the Palazzo Vecchio and explored the huge structure, which was begun around 1300 or so, then added to and modified over the course of centuries. Today, it is both a government building and a museum. In my opinion, the most interesting rooms were the ones renovated for Eleanora of Toledo, who died of malaria shortly after they were completed. Her chapel was particularly beautiful.
Though we intended to go to the Galileo Science Museum, we ended up at the Basilica di Santa Croce, where Michelangelo and Galileo are buried. The Gothic structure was unfortunately in the midst of renovations, so its true beauty was marred by extensive scaffolding. Still, I did manage to see a few of the frescoed chapels.
Dan's ankle had been hurting him for the last few days, so we decided to hire a cab and return to the hotel. Unfortunately, Piazza di Santa Croce is the only square in Florence without a gelateria, so my ice cream dreams were dashed.
To be continued.
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
How to Fully Explore Two Italian Cities and Completely Exhaust Your Spouse in Two Weeks, Part II
Days 1 and 2
In an effort to dissuade anyone from sitting in our row on our flight to Charlotte, we booked the window and aisle seats and left the middle seat empty. Were it not for a narcoleptic woman who had missed her original flight -- no doubt because she fell asleep -- we would have had the row to ourselves.
In any case, I took the middle seat and gave her the window seat. Her affliction became apparent when she fell asleep in the middle of a conversation with me. I know I'm not at my wittiest when I'm on a plane, but I've never had someone nod off mid-conversation!
The woman -- let's call her Sleepy -- spent most of the flight with her head in her lap. As Dan pointed out, she should apply for a position demonstrating proper crash positioning. About halfway through the flight, she went to the bathroom. She was in there a good twenty minutes, no doubt asleep on the toilet.
We booked first-class seats for the Charlotte to Rome leg of our journey -- free food, free drinks, real utensils, warm towels, and seats that actually become recliners with footrests. As Dan has frequently pointed out, I'm not afraid of flying; I'm afraid of flying coach.
Unfortunately, exhaustion got the better of us once we reached the Capricci Romani Bed and Breakfast, and we slept away the majority of the day. We were up in time to join in the Dolce Vita stroll though -- Romans take long afternoon walks instead of holing up in their homes and watching TV. Based on what I saw of their television options, I completely understand the tradition. In that one walk, we saw the Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps. We stopped for dinner in a small trattoria before deciding to catch the Metro at Spagna.
Day 3
We headed to the Colosseum and the ancient city center via the Metro. After a short wait at the Colosseum, we purchased our tickets. In preparation for the trip, we downloaded all of Rick Steves' free audio tours for Rome and Florence into our MP3 players, thereby avoiding the extra expense and frustration of renting audio tours or hiring tour guides. I highly recommend these audio tours: they are informative and entertaining.
From the Colosseum, we went to the Roman Forum, and from there we ascended Palatine Hill, at which point Dan decided I was trying to kill him and began complaining bitterly that I just wanted to use the repatriation insurance to get his body home. Yet, somehow, I am the one with the first injury -- a painful blister.
Day 4
Massimo, our host, secured tickets for the Galleria Borghese for us, so after breakfast we caught the Metro to Spagna and walked to Villa Borghese, Rome's heart-shaped answer to New York's Central Park. The rain caught us off-guard, and we were forced to buy a couple of umbrellas from a newsstand at four euros apiece. Of course, once we had the umbrellas, our need for them almost immediately disappeared.
We were early for the Galleria, so we toured the park leisurely, noting the remarkable lack of heads on many of the statues. Apparently, these are the easiest part of a statue to destroy. At last, we proceeded to the museum. The galleria was originally the personal residence of Cardinal Borghese, a hedonistic man who obtained his religious title simply by being a pope's nephew. He was a patron of Bernini, and the museum features a large collection of that artist's paintings and sculptures. His David is really remarkable, in my opinion.
After leaving the Galleria, we returned to the Spanish Steps and had high tea at Babbington's Tea Rooms. Worn down from the walking and the weather, we returned to our room for a nap.
That evening, we crossed the Ponte Sant'Angelo in search of a good dinner, but we made a bad choice. The food was bland and clod, and, with the exception of a waitress who said "voila" every time she added or removed anything from our table, completely unremarkable.
At least I was able to observe the behavior of the other diners. At one nearby table, an uncouth but apparently well-known man sat down with his date and proceeded to tweak her breast, place her hand in his lap, and offer a dozen unsolicited kisses. She was clearly relieved when their dining companion arrived.
After waiting an almost ridiculous amount of time for the bill, we were finally released from Cantina del Vecchio, never to return.
Day 5
We took the train from Rome to Florence first thing this morning and checked into the Hotel Panama. The room was small, but it had a balcony. Dropping our bags, we immediately set out to explore the city. The scent of Greek cooking immediately pulled us into a tiny restaurant, where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch of moussaka and imam -- eggplant and other veggies with feta cheese.
After lunch, we walked to the Accademia -- David's house. I think Dan found Michelangelo's masterpiece as magnificent as I did when I first saw it. The museum holds little else of interest, and we soon proceeded toward the Duomo. coming around the corner into the Duomo's piazza is an awe-inspiring sight. We made our way into the church and marveled at the structure. Finally, we walked to the Baptistry and admired the doors before entering to stare at the domed ceiling.
After our regularly scheduled nap, we went to Ristorante Perseus for dinner. I had ravioli with butter and sage and Dan enjoyed a pasta with a beef sauce. For dessert, I tried a local favorite -- vin santo with biscotti. You dip the biscotti in the sweet wine. It was different, but really tasty. Dan's fruit tart with fresh whipped cream was a little better.
It's colder in Florence, but it was nice enough during the day. The pace was slower than in Rome and it seemed like there were fewer tourists.
To be continued.
In an effort to dissuade anyone from sitting in our row on our flight to Charlotte, we booked the window and aisle seats and left the middle seat empty. Were it not for a narcoleptic woman who had missed her original flight -- no doubt because she fell asleep -- we would have had the row to ourselves.
In any case, I took the middle seat and gave her the window seat. Her affliction became apparent when she fell asleep in the middle of a conversation with me. I know I'm not at my wittiest when I'm on a plane, but I've never had someone nod off mid-conversation!
The woman -- let's call her Sleepy -- spent most of the flight with her head in her lap. As Dan pointed out, she should apply for a position demonstrating proper crash positioning. About halfway through the flight, she went to the bathroom. She was in there a good twenty minutes, no doubt asleep on the toilet.
We booked first-class seats for the Charlotte to Rome leg of our journey -- free food, free drinks, real utensils, warm towels, and seats that actually become recliners with footrests. As Dan has frequently pointed out, I'm not afraid of flying; I'm afraid of flying coach.
Unfortunately, exhaustion got the better of us once we reached the Capricci Romani Bed and Breakfast, and we slept away the majority of the day. We were up in time to join in the Dolce Vita stroll though -- Romans take long afternoon walks instead of holing up in their homes and watching TV. Based on what I saw of their television options, I completely understand the tradition. In that one walk, we saw the Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps. We stopped for dinner in a small trattoria before deciding to catch the Metro at Spagna.
Day 3
We headed to the Colosseum and the ancient city center via the Metro. After a short wait at the Colosseum, we purchased our tickets. In preparation for the trip, we downloaded all of Rick Steves' free audio tours for Rome and Florence into our MP3 players, thereby avoiding the extra expense and frustration of renting audio tours or hiring tour guides. I highly recommend these audio tours: they are informative and entertaining.
From the Colosseum, we went to the Roman Forum, and from there we ascended Palatine Hill, at which point Dan decided I was trying to kill him and began complaining bitterly that I just wanted to use the repatriation insurance to get his body home. Yet, somehow, I am the one with the first injury -- a painful blister.
Day 4
Massimo, our host, secured tickets for the Galleria Borghese for us, so after breakfast we caught the Metro to Spagna and walked to Villa Borghese, Rome's heart-shaped answer to New York's Central Park. The rain caught us off-guard, and we were forced to buy a couple of umbrellas from a newsstand at four euros apiece. Of course, once we had the umbrellas, our need for them almost immediately disappeared.
We were early for the Galleria, so we toured the park leisurely, noting the remarkable lack of heads on many of the statues. Apparently, these are the easiest part of a statue to destroy. At last, we proceeded to the museum. The galleria was originally the personal residence of Cardinal Borghese, a hedonistic man who obtained his religious title simply by being a pope's nephew. He was a patron of Bernini, and the museum features a large collection of that artist's paintings and sculptures. His David is really remarkable, in my opinion.
After leaving the Galleria, we returned to the Spanish Steps and had high tea at Babbington's Tea Rooms. Worn down from the walking and the weather, we returned to our room for a nap.
That evening, we crossed the Ponte Sant'Angelo in search of a good dinner, but we made a bad choice. The food was bland and clod, and, with the exception of a waitress who said "voila" every time she added or removed anything from our table, completely unremarkable.
At least I was able to observe the behavior of the other diners. At one nearby table, an uncouth but apparently well-known man sat down with his date and proceeded to tweak her breast, place her hand in his lap, and offer a dozen unsolicited kisses. She was clearly relieved when their dining companion arrived.
After waiting an almost ridiculous amount of time for the bill, we were finally released from Cantina del Vecchio, never to return.
Day 5
We took the train from Rome to Florence first thing this morning and checked into the Hotel Panama. The room was small, but it had a balcony. Dropping our bags, we immediately set out to explore the city. The scent of Greek cooking immediately pulled us into a tiny restaurant, where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch of moussaka and imam -- eggplant and other veggies with feta cheese.
After lunch, we walked to the Accademia -- David's house. I think Dan found Michelangelo's masterpiece as magnificent as I did when I first saw it. The museum holds little else of interest, and we soon proceeded toward the Duomo. coming around the corner into the Duomo's piazza is an awe-inspiring sight. We made our way into the church and marveled at the structure. Finally, we walked to the Baptistry and admired the doors before entering to stare at the domed ceiling.
After our regularly scheduled nap, we went to Ristorante Perseus for dinner. I had ravioli with butter and sage and Dan enjoyed a pasta with a beef sauce. For dessert, I tried a local favorite -- vin santo with biscotti. You dip the biscotti in the sweet wine. It was different, but really tasty. Dan's fruit tart with fresh whipped cream was a little better.
It's colder in Florence, but it was nice enough during the day. The pace was slower than in Rome and it seemed like there were fewer tourists.
To be continued.
Monday, November 29, 2010
How to Fully Explore Two Italian Cities and Completely Exhaust Your Spouse in Two Weeks, Part I
Unlike many people, my mother never indulged in long beach vacations or other leisurely trips when I was a child. Primarily, this is because my mother has never enjoyed long periods of silence or the solitude one finds in a deserted stretch of land. Instead, my mother's vacations were strictly scheduled and frequently required a datebook in order to manage all the museums and historical sites. My father and I assumed this was how all families vacationed and therefore never questioned her.
Fast forward to my adulthood: while I don't strictly schedule as my mother always did, I am still someone who feels a driving need to accomplish things during a vacation. I can ride -- and frequently have ridden -- every single ride in Disneyland in a single day. Vacations, as my mother would say, are not for sissies.
My husband has repeatedly thwarted my natural instincts by scheduling cruise vacations, thereby protecting himself from my concept of vacation. The few trips we have made to Chicago have been mostly on his schedule, because Chicago is his hometown. However, I succeeded in cajoling him into scheduling our first European vacation earlier this year, and, despite many attempts on his part to cancel said trip, we actually went.
We settled on Italy for two reasons: first, I had been there before and have been studying the language off and on for over a year; and second, it was much cheaper than his first choice, England. I went to Italy in 2002 with two good friends. I admit that I relied heavily on them -- and large quantities of wine -- during that trip. Unfortunately, neither of them were of the same bent when it came to museums and eating. I always wanted to have the audio tour; they were more of the mind to see things and move along. I always wanted to sit down and have a nice meal; they always wanted fast and cheap food. Therefore, though the memory of the trip will always be a good one, I was certain I could do better with a more amenable partner (i.e., my devoted and loving husband).
The last two weeks have convinced me that Dan truly is devoted and loving. The same two weeks have convinced him that my ultimate goal was to make use of that travel insurance clause referring to the repatriation of dead bodies -- his, specifically.
Over the next two days, I will share an abreviated version of my travel journal. I hope that you enjoy it.
Fast forward to my adulthood: while I don't strictly schedule as my mother always did, I am still someone who feels a driving need to accomplish things during a vacation. I can ride -- and frequently have ridden -- every single ride in Disneyland in a single day. Vacations, as my mother would say, are not for sissies.
My husband has repeatedly thwarted my natural instincts by scheduling cruise vacations, thereby protecting himself from my concept of vacation. The few trips we have made to Chicago have been mostly on his schedule, because Chicago is his hometown. However, I succeeded in cajoling him into scheduling our first European vacation earlier this year, and, despite many attempts on his part to cancel said trip, we actually went.
We settled on Italy for two reasons: first, I had been there before and have been studying the language off and on for over a year; and second, it was much cheaper than his first choice, England. I went to Italy in 2002 with two good friends. I admit that I relied heavily on them -- and large quantities of wine -- during that trip. Unfortunately, neither of them were of the same bent when it came to museums and eating. I always wanted to have the audio tour; they were more of the mind to see things and move along. I always wanted to sit down and have a nice meal; they always wanted fast and cheap food. Therefore, though the memory of the trip will always be a good one, I was certain I could do better with a more amenable partner (i.e., my devoted and loving husband).
The last two weeks have convinced me that Dan truly is devoted and loving. The same two weeks have convinced him that my ultimate goal was to make use of that travel insurance clause referring to the repatriation of dead bodies -- his, specifically.
Over the next two days, I will share an abreviated version of my travel journal. I hope that you enjoy it.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
